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De Garde Brewing

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In 2012, Linsey and Trevor Rogers founded '''de Garde Brewing''' in Tillamook, Oregon. De Garde is often considered the first exclusive [[Spontaneous_Fermentation|spontaneously fermented beer]] producer in the United States, despite initial intentions to also produce conventional beers <ref name="wweek">[http://www.wweek.com/outdoors/2016/05/27/tillamooks-de-garde-might-be-the-worlds-quirkiest-brewery/ Tillamook's De Garde Might Be the World's Quirkiest Brewery. Retrieved 3/5/2018]</ref>. Due to the positive progression of their first spontaneous beer batch, the Rogers decided to solely focus on spontaneous fermentation because it is a "representation of [their] heart and soul" <ref name="craftbeertemple">[http://craftbeertemple.com/videoblog/2015/05/on-location-at-de-garde-brewing/ The Beer Temple Episode #264: On Location at De Garde Brewing]</ref> (~11 min in).
The first de Garde beers were released to the public in 2013 <ref name="bierversuche">[http://www.bierversuche.ch/blog/2016/05/interview-with-trevor-rogers-of-de-garde-brewing/ Interview with Trevor Rogers of De Garde Brewing. Retrieved 2/25/2018.]</ref>. Notable releases include Bu Weisse, a [[Berliner_Weissbier | Berliner Weisse]]-inspired low-alcohol beer (often fruited), Saison Premiere, a [[Saison | saison]]-inspired blend (often fruited), and The Broken Truck, a [[Gueuze | gueuze]]-inspired blend of one-, two-, and three-year-old beers. Roughly 90-95% of de Garde's beers are sold directly out of the tasting room <ref name="wweek"></ref><ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~9 min in).
In 2016, de Garde was named fifth best brewery in the world <ref>[https://www.ratebeer.com/ratebeerbest/BestBrewers-World2016.asp RateBeer Top Brewers In The World For the Year 2015]></ref> and top brewery in Oregon by RateBeer <ref>[https://www.ratebeer.com/ratebeerbest/BestBeers-State2016.asp 2016 RateBeer Top Beers, Brewers, New Brewers By Subregion. Retrieved 3/5/2018.></ref>.
==History==
Trevor Rogers is a former assistant manager of Pelican Brewery <ref name="newschoolbeer">[http://www.newschoolbeer.com/2013/03/de-garde-brewing-opening-soon-with-a-wildbarrel-agedfarmhouse-focus.html De Garde Brewing Opening Soon With a Wild/Barrel-Aged/Farmhouse Focus. Retrieved 2/25/2018.]</ref> but boasts an original affection for [[Wine | wine ]] - even working several wine industry jobs and at one point planning a career in wine <ref name="talkbeer">[https://www.talkbeer.com/community/threads/de-garde-brewing.5908/ Talk Beer- AMA De Garde Brewing. Retrieved 2/25/2018.]</ref> (page 2 post #22). He credits Brouwerij Rodenbach for opening his eyes to [[Mixed Fermentation|mixed fermentation beers]] <ref name="craftcommander">[http://www.craftcommander.com/10-questions/2015/7/9/trevor-rogers-de-garde-brewing Trevor Rogers of de Garde Brewing. Retrieved 1/28/2017.]</ref>, [[3_Fonteinen | 3 Fonteinen]], [[Cantillon]], and Tilquin as the catalysts to encourage his exploration of spontaneously fermented beer <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 1 post #4) <ref name="bierversuche"></ref><ref name="craftcommander"></ref>, and Upright Brewery and Block 15 Brewing for introducing wild beers to consumers in Oregon <ref name="oregonbeer">[http://www.oregonbeergrowler.com/blog/de-garde-goes-wild-in-tillamook de Garde Goes Wild in Tillamook. Retrieved 2/25/2018.]</ref>.
Before selecting a physical home for the brewery, Rogers wanted to qualify potential locations for spontaneous fermentation character. He exposed sterile wort to ambient microflora along more than 100 miles of the Oregon Coast (from Newport to Astoria) <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~5 min in) <ref name="wweek"></ref>, originally targeted for its consistent year-round temperature and climate <ref name="bierversuche"></ref>. Using a grist of pilsner and wheat, Rogers brewed 15-gallon trial batches on a MoreBeer! Tippy-Dump BrewSculpture. The wort was chilled and split into food grade buckets, standardized to 1-gallon volumes for consistency. The buckets were brought to prospective locations and left uncovered overnight, emulating the function of a [[Coolship | coolship]]. Once retrieved, the beer was allowed to ferment for approximately 12 months before undergoing sensory assessment to understand the unique representation of ambient microflora from that area <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~5 min in). Rogers noticed a distinct sensory difference in spontaneously fermented trial beers in as few as 10 miles apart <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~4 min in). This trial batch method allowed Rogers to refine his list of prospective locations and repeat batches to qualify consistency <ref name="bierversuche"></ref>. Ultimately, Tillamook was selected for its desirable microflora character and shorter [[Spontaneous_Fermentation#Microbial_Succession_During_Fermentation | fermentation timeline ]] <ref name="beerandbrewing">[https://beerandbrewing.com/breakout-brewer-de-garde-brewing/ Breakout Brewer: de Garde Brewing. Retrieved 2/25/2018.]</ref>.
De Garde initiated brewing operations in 2012 in downtown Tillamook using a 7 bbl brewing system. Their initial focus was to brew a wide variety of clean beers and spontaneously fermented beers <ref name="newschoolbeer"></ref>, however the early success of initial spontaneous batches encouraged the shift to a singular focus. Rogers specifically credits the first batch of Bu Weisse, brewed on a whim to determine brewhouse efficiency and specifications, for reinforcing his desire to pursue spontaneous fermentation exclusively <ref name="wweek"></ref><ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~2 min in). By 2015, the Bu Weisse beers represented 15-20% of total production, quickly becoming de Garde's flagship beer <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~2 min in). In 2014, they closed the 2nd St. location and moved to a new 3,000 sq ft facility four miles south, next to the Tillamook Air Museum <ref name="bendsource">[https://www.bendsource.com/bend/the-wild-wizards-at-de-garde/Content?oid=2426667 The Wild Wizards At De Garde. Retrieved 3/5/2018.]</ref>. They expanded to a new 10 bbl system, which can squeeze out up to 15 bbl of wort due to the modest gravity and alcohol content of many of the beers <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~26 min in). The expansion also included a 14 bbl coolship fabricated by Practical Fusion of Hillsboro, Oregon <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 22 post #421). In 2017, after more than two years of renovations, de Garde returned to downtown Tillamook with the opening of their new tasting room and brewery. Their existing 10 bbl brewhouse was moved to this new location which promises to hold more than 2,000 oak vessels, including dozens of [Foeder | foeders ] <ref>[http://www.newschoolbeer.com/2017/12/inside-look-de-garde-brewings-new-tasting-room-brewery.html An Inside Look at De Garde Brewing’s New Tasting Room & Brewery. Retrieved 3/4/2018.]</ref>. With the expansion, they intend to shift from using small format oak vessels (~60 gal) in favor of large format one ones (~130-550 gal) in an effort to increase efficiency and limit oxidation <ref>[https://www.portlandmercury.com/lush-life/2017/11/08/19453175/inside-de-garde-brewings-expansion Inside de Garde Brewing’s Expansion. Retrieved 3/4/2018.]</ref>.
Today, de Garde is motivated to be as close to an authentic [[Lambic | lambic]] brewery outside of Belgium. They rely strictly on ambient microflora to create a local manifestation of spontaneously fermented beer <ref name="thesourhour1">[http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/the-sour-hour-de-garde-brewing/ The Sour Hour Episode 20 - De Garde Brewing.]</ref> (~23 min in).
De Garde brews spontaneously fermented beers year-round due to the steady, cool, wet climate in Tillamook <ref name="oregonbeer"></ref>.
90-95% of of the grist used in de Garde's beer is Northwest grown and/or malted <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~33 min in) and only some recipes use [[Grain | raw grain]], such as unmalted wheat in Saison Premiere <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~22 min in). Oats are sometimes used to reduce dryness <ref name="bierversuche"></ref>.
De Garde prefers three or four-year-old aged Cascade or Willamette [[Hops | hops ]] for most of its recipes. Rogers is not particularly fond of the cheesy character of aged hops, instead preferring a wild, earthy, and herbal character <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~31 min in). In his experience, aged hops can also contribute noticeable tannins, particularly in more aggressively hopped beers <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~52 min in). Beers are hopped at 1.5-3.0 lb/bbl (0.8-1.5 oz/gal), with the latter representing the rate used in lambic-inspired beers <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~31 min in). Brewers have progressively increased the hopping rate over the years to prevent beers from becoming too acidic <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~30 min in). Bales of aged hops are lab-tested for de Garde to ensure they are not too aggressive or mild <ref name="bierversuche"></ref>. Occasionally, non-aged hops are used at the end of the boil, in the whirlpool, or dry hop for fresh hop character. This is common in some [[Saison | saison]]-inspired recipes <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~31 min in), such as Azacca in Saison Troisieme, designed to marry the fruity yeast esters with fruity hop flavors <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~22 min in). In Spears, de Garde used a total of 5.0 lb/bbl (2.6 oz/gal) of hops <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 4 post #80).
Rogers is not averse to using imported ingredients, such as European malts and hops, when no suitable domestic substitute exists since it contributes to the overall quality of his beers <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 7 post #138).
Tillamook water is mineral deficient much like distilled water. Rogers does not treat the water for the vast majority of recipes because he wants the beer to be an authentic representation of the environment. Exceptions include hop-forward andsaison-inspired recipes where gypsum and calcium chloride is added in nominal amounts <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~32 min in).
Rogers experimented with traditional [[Turbid_Mash | turbid mash]] regimens but switched to a modern approach instead <ref name="beervana">[http://beervana.blogspot.com/2016/11/the-spontaneous-files-de-garde-brewing.html The Spontaneous Files: De Garde Brewing. Retrieved 3/3/2018.]</ref>. He uses a typical mash procedure, featuring a higher-than-normal mash temperature <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~24 min in), bordering on the edge of denaturing conversion enzymes, for most beers <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 4 post #71). In general, de Garde produces wort that "could be found at any brewery" with the exception of more adjuncts, such as wheat. Mash pH is adjusted on occasion, specifically for the Berliner Weisse/[[Gose | gose]]-inspired recipes since brewers intentionally avoid the enteric bacteria phase of spontaneous fermentation to shorten fermentation duration and produce less funky character. It is important to note, however that no pH adjustments are made after the mash <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~26 min in). The Berliner Weisse/gose-inspired beers are mashed at 150°F for a longer duration for a more fermentable wort. The Lambiclambic-inspired beers are an entirely different recipe designed to be slightly less fermentable <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~25 min in). A hot sparge is used to rinse the grain <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~52 min in).
Brewers do not oxygenate the wort <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~27 min in). Post boil, the wort is transferred into the coolship, typically around 3-4 pm. Upon entering the coolship, the wort is still at near-boiling temperature. The next day the wort is removed from the coolship around 12 pm (after ~20 hours), though overnight ambient temperatures can impact the cooling rate and exact removal time <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~24 min in). Every de Garde beer runs through the coolship <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~23 min in) <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~3 min in). The ~14 bbl coolship was built by Practical Fusion in Hillsboro, Oregon <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 22 post #421). Prior to having the coolship installed, de Garde used their 7 bbl Hot Liquor Tank and Boil Kettle (which featured removable tops) for spontaneous inoculation. They equalized the volume between the two vessels to give a higher [[Coolship#Surface_Area_to_Volume_Ratio | surface area to volume ratio ]] <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 6 post #111).
For the Berliner Weisse/gose-inspired beers, the coolship inoculated wort is transferred back into the kettle and held between 100-120°F (with 110°F as a target) for approximately 48-72 hours to encourage [[Wort_Souring | acidification from ambient lactic acid bacteria]]. This contributes to a relatively clean, yet still slightly funky character in the beer. After the warm temperature hold is complete, the wort is transferred to oak [[Barrel | barrels ]] and allowed to cool naturally <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~22 min in) <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 12 post #227).
==Fermentation Methods==
Overall, spontaneous fermentation character is consistent year round but intra-batch variation (from barrel to barrel) varies widely. It is rare to dump an entire batch, often just individual barrels from a batch <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~14 min in). Rogers has intentionally left barrels exceed the four-year mark to see how they will evolve. His willingness to gamble at times is a direct desire to make the best beer possible <ref name="craftbeertemple"></ref> (~16 min in).
De Garde commonly adds [[Soured_Fruit_Beer | fruit ]] to their spontaneous beers, using ratios inspired from Belgian lambic producers. Their default [[Soured_Fruit_Beer#Usage_Suggestions | fruit-to-beer ratio ]] is 2.0 lb/gal with exceptions for aggressive fruits (cranberry and currant) at 1.0 lb/gal and delicate fruits (peach) as high as 4.0 lb/gal. Brewers use a variety of fruit formats but prefer fresh or frozen. Purees are occasionally used for beers due to seasonal limitations <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~30 min in). Rogers prefers frozen fruit for its enhanced color and flavor <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 22 post #421). He is particularly fond of wine grapes (due to his love of wine), especially grapes that express a strong sense of terroir <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 2 post #22). Beer is conditioned on fruit until the desired character is obtained, ranging from one week to three months <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 12 post #227).
Rogers' greatest goal is to produce drinkable beer with character <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~50 min in). He craves depth of flavor, funk, and nuance - not just aggressive acidity or fruit <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~24 min in). [[Blending ]] is a collaborative process at de Garde <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~44 min). Rogers tries to utilize everyone in the brewery for input and admits to being occasionally "outvoted" on blend compositions. He has a deep respect for the nuanced palate of his wife, Linsey <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~45 min in). Beers are blended just before [[Packaging | packaging ]] and are neither filtered nor pasteurized. For beers spending less than one year in oak, wine yeast is added to the blending tank just before bottling. This helps supplement the ambient yeast to out compete the high ambient bacteria population <ref name="thesourhour1"></ref> (~28, 34 min in) <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 21 post #412).
Rogers believes that the bottle conditioning process is one of the most fragile states of spontaneous beer production <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~15 min in). De Garde originally packaged beers in 750 ml Belgian-style amber bottles with a crown but have since moved to amber champagne bottles with a cork and crown. The brewery would eventually like to package beers in cans to allow for greater portability and lower cost, further emphasizing Rogers' goal to produce the least expensive beer he can <ref name="thesourhour2"></ref> (~1, 4 min in). Ideally, Rogers would like to target a $10 4-pack of 16 oz cans <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 15 post #287). He aims to price de Garde beers so that it does not require a special occasion to enjoy but rather creates one <ref name="talkbeer"></ref> (page 11 post #208). Bottles are gravity filled, capped individually using a pneumatic capper, hand-labeled and stamped <ref name="wweek"></ref>.
*[[Spontaneous Fermentation]]
*[[Turbid Mash]]
*[[Coolship]]
*[[Mixed_Fermentation]]
*[[Wort_Souring]]
*[[Lambic]]
*[[Gueuze]]
*[[Saison]]
*[[Berliner_Weissbier | Berliner Weissbier]]
*[[Gose]]
*[[Wine]]
*''[[Brettanomyces]]''
*''[[Pediococcus]]''
*[[Cantillon]]
*[[3_Fonteinen | 3 Fonteinen]]
*[[Sour_Fruit_Beer]]
===External Resources===
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