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added Bob Sylvester's priming guide
See [http://jeffreycrane.blogspot.com/2015/06/blending-calculator-ph-abv-and.html Jeff Crane's "Blending Calculator" (extension of Michael Tonsmeire's "Blending Calculator")] for a re-yeasting and priming calculator.
====Bob Sylvester's Priming Guide====
[http://saintsomewherebrewing.com/ Bob Sylvester from Saint Somewhwere Brewery] describes his method to bottle conditioning on a commercial scale (amounts are for a 7 barrel/217 gallon batch of beer) <ref>[https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1154486281246251/?comment_id=1154705631224316&comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R%22%7D Conversation with Bob Sylvester on his bottle conditioning methods on MTF. 09/26/2015.]</ref>:
# All my beers have a final gravity of pretty much zero. I use plain cane sugar. I've found it to be pretty yeast friendly and the results are faster with sucrose. Not sure why dextrose became popular. Most of us don't brew with corn, so why add it at packaging.
# Use dry champagne yeast or [http://www.scottlab.com/product-57.aspx EDM wine yeast].
# For 7 barrels/217 gallons of beer, re-hydrate 250 grams of yeast in 3.5 gallons of water with 12 pounds of cane sugar dissolved at 108°F. I do this first and let it bloom while I transfer the beer from the fermenter to my kettle. Takes about 20 minutes. By this time the yeast is about to crawl out of the bucket.
# Add the yeast slurry just before transfer is finished as this will help incorporate the slurry. Carbonation happens the same day as packaging if done correctly.
# Keg conditioning the same exact process but back the sugar down to 8 pounds and keep the yeast at 250 grams.
# Wait 10 days. That's it. With time, the initial "rough" carbonation you get in the first couple days will mellow out into the fluffy stuff.
===Oxygen exposure===